 |
Gardening
: Research
: Beans

Nov. 1759, Christopher Ayscough, gardener
to Governor Fauquier:
| Long- podded beans (fava)* |
White blossom beans
(fava) |
| Windsor beans (fava) |
Nonpareil beans (fava) |
| Green beans (kidney?) |
|
March 26, 1767, William Wills, Richmond,
John Donley, Petersburg:
| Winsor (fava) |
Early Mazarine (fava) |
| Long Pod (fava) |
Early Lisbon (fava) |
| Nanpareil (fava) |
White Blossum (fava) |
| Batersea (fava) |
Early Dwarf Kidney (kidney) |
| Yellow (kidney) |
Scarlet (kidney) |
| White (kidney) |
Black (kidney) |
March 10, 1768, William Wills,
Richmond, John Donely, Petersburg:
| Early Massagan (fava) |
Early Lisbon (fava) |
| Broad Windsor (fava) |
Sandwich (fava) |
| Tokers (fava) |
White Blossums (fava) |
| Kidney beans of all
colors |
Dec. 1772, John Carter Store, Williamsburg:
| Long pod bean (fava) |
Windsor bean (fava) |
| Canterbury dwarf kidney
bean (kidney) |
Dec. 1773, John Carter Store, Williamsburg:
| Long pod beans (fava) |
Toker's beans (fava) |
| Canterbury dwarf kidney
bean (kidney) |
Jan. 1774, to be sold by James Wilson,
Gardener at the College, Williamsburg:
| Mazagon (fava) |
Long pod (fava) |
| Windsor (fava) |
Early Hotspur (fava) |
| White blossom (fava) |
|
April 1775, John Carter Store, Williamsburg:
| Windsor beans (fava) |
Long pod beans (fava) |
| White dwarf kidney beans
(kidney) |
Feb. 1776, Myles Taylor, Richmond:
Turkey snap beans (kidney)
March 1778, Col. Trent's Store, Manchester:
Windsor beans (fava)
Hotspur beans (fava)
March 1792, Minton Collins, Richmond:
| Large Windsor beans
(fava) |
Lima (lima) |
| French or snap beans
(kidney) |
Jan. 24, 1793, Minton Collins,
Richmond
| Large Winsor (fava) |
Mazagan (fava) |
| Long Podded (fava) |
Canterbury Dwarf (kidney) |
| Snap (kidney) |
Speckled French (kidney) |
Feb. 1770, John Page of Rosewell:
Windsor beans (fava)
Sept. 1771, Robert Carter Nicholas:
Windsor beans (fava)
Best French beans (kidney)
Beans mentioned by John Randolph in
A Treatise on Gardening, 1793:
| Windsor (fava) |
Dutch (kidney) |
| French or snap (kidney) |
Dwarf (kidney) |
| Bushel or Sugar (Lima) |
|
Beans mentioned by Joseph Prentis
in Monthly Kalender and Garden Book, 1775
- 1788:
| Broad (fava) |
Hotspur (fava) |
| Magazan (Magazan) (fava) |
Kidney (kidney) |
| Long podded (fava) |
French (kidney) |
* All varieties listed as fava type beans, with the exception of Hotspur,
are identified in the plant catalog appendix of Every Man his own Gardener,
Ambercrombie-Mawe (1782), Hotspur bean is identified in Prentis's Monthly
Kalender, 1775-1779 (January - "plant Hotspur Beans or the long podded
bean").
The list would suggest that there was a far more common presence of
the fava type bean in our gardens than what we currently show and in
a much greater variety. The fava or Broad Bean (Vicia faba) as it is
more commonly known in England, is an ancient crop probably first domesticated
in the eastern Mediterranean area in the Neolithic period (The Kitchen
Garden,
D. Stuart 1984). Athenians used the Broad Bean at feasts dedicated to
Apollo. Romans ate them at funerals because departed souls were said
to reside in them. Pythagorus forbade his students from eating them
because he believed they were made from the same putrid material from
which, at creation, man was made. They were also used in the Roman voting
system, a black bean for a no vote and a white bean for a yes. Broad
Beans were a staple throughout the medieval period and monastery records
record harvests in the hundreds of pounds. The 18th century gardener
had a great number of varieties to choose from and this popularity seems
to last well into the 19th century. Burr, in Field and Garden Vegetables
of America
(1865), lists 19 varieties of fava or English beans. One of the
most popular seems to be the Mazagan. Joseph Prentis writes in the Monthly
Kalender and Garden Book, 1775 – 1788, that; "The
small Magazan (Mazagan) is to be preferred to any other kind that I
have seen." Mary Randolph in Virginia Housewife (1824),
agrees and writes of the mazagan bean; "This is the smallest and
most delicate species of the Windsor bean." This bean apparently
was developed in a Portuguese settlement of the same name which is located
on the coast of Morroco.
The Phaseolus genus is one of the most important of the new world food
plants. Archeological sites in Peru have dated Beans to 8,000 BCE and
it had reached the southwestern United States by 5,000 BCE. The Bean
is an excellent dietary companion to the New World staple Corn in that
Beans contain Lysine, which is lacking in Corn. Lysine helps the body
digest protein. Beans are among the first vegetables mentioned by early
plant explorers. Hariot, in his trip to Roanoke Island in 1586 writes; "called
by us beans, because in greatness and partly in shape they are like
to the beans in England, [broad or fava beans] saving they are flatter,
of more divers colours, and some pied." The new world beans are
cited by all explorers to North America as a staple crop with the natives
and most remark on the great diversity of forms. John Josselyn writes
in An
Account of Two Voyages, 1674; "They are variegated much…some
white, black, red, yellow, blue, spotted…" The new world
bean is first illustrated in Europe in Fuchsius’ De Historia
stirpium,
1561, but it is not until late inthe next century that they become a
common vegetable on the English table. John Parkinson, in Paradisi
in Sol,
1629, writes that beans are found "ofterner on rich mens tables"
and John Worlidge writes in Systema horti-culturae, 1683, that
"within the memory of man they were a great rarity, although now
a common delicate food." The French were among the first Europeans
to popularize this vegetable, particularly the dwarf varieties that
carry the name “French Bean” to this day. This has caused
some confusion as to the place of origin of the Phaseolus Bean. As
late as 1822 Henry Phillips writes in his History of Cultivated
Plants
that it is now known that these beans are not native to France, but rather;
"we may conclude this excellent and wholesome vegetable is a native
of the eastern extremity of Europe, or that part of Asia now belonging
to the Turks." Part of the confusion is due to a red bean described
by Pliny in his Natural History (18th book, chapter 12) as Phaseoli.
Pliny’s bean was undoubtedy a fava type bean although the new
world bean derives its genus name from Pliny’s Phaseoli.
The relative scarcity of kidney type beans listed for sale in Williamsburg
is probably not a reflection of their popularity but more likely an indicator
of the common practice of saving ones own seed and the exchange of seeds
between colonists. This is particularly true of the kidney bean which
is more easily raised for seed in this country than in England, from which,
the seeds for sale in area stores are coming. Kidney beans were perhaps
the most popular New World vegetable in the 18th century kitchen garden,
both here and in England. This is evident in all of the 17th and 18th
century recipe books printed in England as well as recipes books in America
from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The Art of Cookery,
1747, by Hannah Glass published in England and the best selling cookbook
of the 18th century gives 3 recipes for the English bean and 7 recipes
for French Beans. There are also a very wide variety of kidney bean types
grown and used by the English. Stephen Switzer, in The Practical Kitchen
Gardener (1727), writes of the kidney bean; "there are more
diversity of species, than of any other garden plants we have transmitted
to us from foreign parts." The challenge is to determine which types
are appropriate to pre-Revolutionary Williamsburg.
There were many varieties of these beans grown both in Europe and Virginia, most of which have now disappeared. One of the best descriptions of the most common types is found in The Complete Farmer, by A Society of Gentlemen (1769): “The Magazan bean is the first and best sort of early beans at present known; these are brought from a Portuguese settlement of the same name on the coast of Africa, just without the Straits of Gibraltar; the seeds of this sort are much smaller than those of the horse bean; and as the Portuguese are but slovenly gardeners, there are commonly a great number of bad seeds among them. The next sort is the early Portugal bean, which appears to be the Magazan sort saved in Portugal…but these are not near so well tasted as the Mazagan: when therefore the latter can be procured, no person of skill would plant the former.”
“The small Spanish bean comes next; this will ripen soon after the Portugal sort; and being a sweeter bean, should be preferred to it. Soon after the Spanish comes the Sandwich bean; this is almost as large as the Windsor bean, but being hardier is commonly sown a month sooner. The Toker bean, as it is generally called, comes about the same time with the Sandwich, and being a great bearer, is often planted.”
“The Windsor bean is allowed to be the best of all the sorts for the table; when these are planted on a good soil, and allowed sufficient room, their pods will be very large, and in great plenty. They are also, when gathered young, the sweetest and best tasted of all the sorts”.
The Windsor is, to this day, the most common variety of broad bean available.
A modern variety called “White Flowered Long Pod” is
probably similar to long podded beans listed in the inventory.
Canterbury Dwarf Kidney Bean:
The Canterbury bean is one of the most
commonly listed varieties of dwarf kidney
bean in the 18th century. It is one of
the six Phaseolus beans listed in Miller's
Gardeners Dictionary (1754). It
is also listed in Abercrombie-Mawe, Every
Man His Own Gardener (1787), and in
this country in Bernard McMahon's American
Gardener (1806). This was a dwarf
bean, with white seeds that would probably
be classed as a half runner today. Miller,
in The Gardeners Dictionary (1768)
describes it as: These [Canterbury
and Battersea Beans] do not ramble
far, and produce their flowers near the
root so bear plentifully for some time.
Mawe and Abercrombie, in The Universal
Gardener and Botanist (1797) lists
the Canterbury Bean under Dwarf Kidneys:
Canterbury white dwarf, a great bearer
and observe that they seldom throw out
runners, except the Canterbury and Battersea
sorts, which sometimes emit a few stragglers,
but they seldom ramble far.
The Vegetable Garden, by Vilmorin,
Paris, translated in London by Robinson
(1885), lists the White Canterbury bean
as a synonym for the Dwarf White Flageolet
bean. The variety name Canterbury seems
to disappear in this country in the 19th
century but Fearing Burr's Field and
Garden Vegetables of America (1865),
does list the White Flageolet bean so
it would seem that this variety continues
in cultivation in this country under the
French name. Hendrick's, Beans of New
York (1931), agrees with this assumption
in that he gives White Canterbury as a
synonym for the White Flageolet bean.
Flageolet beans, as a group, are used
today primarily as shell beans and Vilmorin
lists them under Dwarf Tough-podded Kidney
Beans. The French Flageolet, or Chevrier
Vert, commonly available today is a smaller, more refined bean than the original Canterbury bean although the modern variety is still used primarily as a shell or dry bean. We have a White Canterbury in our collections that grows as a half runner and seems to show the attributes of the original Canterbury very well.
White Dwarf Kidney Bean:
This bean is listed in period gardening works even more frequently than
the Canterbury bean and is one of several dwarf to semi-dwarf white kidney
beans popular in the 18th century. It is apparently a small, early season
bean since it is often recommended for use in hot beds. Listings for this
bean are found in: A Gardeners Dictionary, 1754, "Dwarf White
Kidney"; A Compleat Body of Gardening, 1757, "Dwarf White
Kidney"; Every Man His Own Gardener, 1782, "Early White
Dwarf"; American Gardener, 1806, "White" dwarf.
By the middle of the 19th century a large number of named varieties with
similar traits emerge and the White Dwarf as a unique variety seems to
disappear. The White Kidney of Burr's Field and Garden Vegetables of
America, 1865, is much like the White Kidney we know today. It is
a late season bean, used almost exclusively as a dry bean, and one not
suitable for hot beds, a chief attribute of the 18th century variety.
Robinson, in his translation of Vilmorin's The Vegetable Garden,
1885, lists the English varieties used for forcing in hot beds as the
Dwarf Dutch Kidney (saying it is "much the same as the White Flageolet"),
Early Etampes Flageolet, Scalloped-leaved Flageolet, Black Belgium Kidney
and Yellow Chalandray. None of these varieties with regard to flower or
seed color, except for the Dwarf Dutch Kidney, would be called a white
kidney, which would seem to lead us back to the White Flageolet or Canterbury
bean. Undoubtedly, the dwarf white kidney beans of the 18th century (Dwarf
White, Battersea, Dutch and Canterbury) were very similar plants. Hendrick,
in Beans of New York, reports that in an 1883 field trial Long
White Canterbury and White Kidney proved to be virtually identical.
The Cannelone bean, while probably not
in the same line as the original White Dwarf, is an heirloom kidney bean,
similar to the Royal Dwarf White Kidney listed in Vilmorin's Vegetable
Garden (1885) and also listed by the United Society of Shakers, NY,
in The Gardener's Manual (1843) and may provide an approximation
of the 18th century White Dwarf.
Turkey snap bean:
Turkey beans have a long tradition in
this country and many localities have
beans, which are said to have come from
the crop of a turkey or goose. The diary
of Col. Francis Taylor, of Orange County Virginia
records Goosecraw beans in 1794.
. However, because all the beans listed
for sale in Williamsburg and Richmond
stores seem to be imported from Europe
it is more likely that the name, Turkey,
in this context, refers to the country
and not the bird. Many varieties of New World Vegetables were
introduced to Europe from Turkish sources. For example, some of
the earliest European references to the New World Corn call it “Turkish
Wheat.” These vegetables were obtained by the OttomanTurks after
their capture of the Portuguese settlements at Ormuz, Persia (1513)
and Diu, India (1538) as well as through the capture of Spanish
ships returning from the New World by Turkish pirates sailing out
of their bases in the Barbary States (Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco).
A number of bean varieties seem to arise in Turkey, which may
be the source of confusion in Phillips History
of cultivated vegetables (1822) where
he incorrectly gives Turkey as the origin
of the Phaseolus bean.
The Turkey Bean was a pole variety and is perhaps the oldest of all snap bean varieties. Giacomo Castelvetro records in The Fruits, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy (1614): “The least well known and the largest, we call ‘Turkish’ beans; they are white or flecked with pink and tan…they grow very tall, so you should either grow them against a trellis, or, if you want a good crop…train them up rows of dried twigs or branches. The pods of these Turkish beans, when they are young and tender, and not fully mature, make and excellent salad.” This is probably the same Turkey bean found in the account book of Sir John Foulis of Ravelson, Scotland (1671 – 1707).
In this country the Turkey bean is described by Andriaen van
der Donck in A Description of the New Netherlands (1656): “The
Turkish beans which our people have introduced there grow wonderfully;
they fill out remarkably well, and are much cultivated. Before
the arrival of the Netherlanders, the Indians raised beans of various
kinds and colours, but generally too coarse to be eaten green,
or to be pickled.” This
would seem to suggest that this variety was developed in Europe
or the Near East. He also describes how they are grown on corn
stalks, a method learned from the native people, which confirm
that this is a pole variety. In the 18th century Peter Kalm lists
Turkish beans being grown in Canada on August 7, 1749. In Williamsburg
they are advertised in the Virginia Gazette by Myles Taylor in
1776.
Pole beans were difficult to raise for seed in England. Philip
Miller, in The Gardeners Dictionary (1754), writes of the Common
White or Dutch Kidney-bean that; the Fruit seldom comes to good:
which Trouble renders it difficult to cultivate this Sort in Plenty.
It is significant that the advertisement for the Turkey bean by
Myles Taylor records that they are imported from Italy as pole
bean varieties could easily be propagated for seed in Italy. We
have obtained a white pole variety of snap bean, which was collected
in Cyprus from a Turkish refugee and is known in that region as
the “Turkish Bean” and may be similar to the bean advertised by Taylor.
There is another, though less likely possibility. One of the oldest named varieties
of dwarf, edible podded kidney bean is the
Refuge. It is listed by McMahon (1806)
and by Thornburn (1822). George von Martens,
in Geo. Die Gartenbohnen (Garden
Beans), 1860, describes it as the Turkish
Date Bean and suggests it acquired the
name Refuge because it was brought to
America or England by French Huguenots
fleeing persecution in France. An advertisement
in The Pennsylvania Gazette on
Nov. 16, 1774 for vegetable seeds includes
a Valentine bean, listed with other varieties
of kidney bean. Red Valentine is a synonym
for the Refuge bean. The 1776 advertisement
by Taylor of a Turkey snap bean could possibly refer to
an early introduction of what was later
called the Refugee bean.
Dutch kidney bean:
The most common variety of snap bean in 18th century England and America
was the White Dutch, also a pole, or runner bean. It is known in the
Netherlands as the Clapboard bean, in France as the Scimitar bean and,
by the 19th century, in America, the Caseknife bean. John Randolph, in
A Treatise on Gardening (1793), the original edition written in Williamsburg,
probably in the 1760’s, observes; “The Dutch sort are not
so apt to be stringy, which the dwarf sort are.” This agrees with
Millers assessment of the bean in The Gardeners Dictionary
(1754), "this is by far the best Sort for Eating yet known."
It is interesting that Vilmorin, by 1885, classifies it as a Tall, Tough-podded
Kidney Beanindicating either a change in standards or a degradation of
the variety.
Stephen Switzer in The Practical Kitchen Gardener,
1727, takes credit for introducing it into England, "There is a large
kind that grows almost as high as hops do...this kind I some years ago
procur'd from Holland." He says that since then it is being grown
in many of the better gardens. It is listed by Miller (1754) as Common
White or Dutch Kidney, by Abercrombie (1782) as White Dutch, saying it
is the best of the climbing sorts, and McMahon (1806) who lists both a
Large White Dutch and Common White as pole beans. Amelia Simmons, in American
Cookery (1796), calls it the Clapboard Bean and says it "is the
easiest cultivated and collected, are good for string beans, will shell
- must be poled." Burr (1865) calls it Case-knife and says it is
common to almost every garden. Robinson, in his translation of Vilmorin
(1885) ties all the names together and calls it White Dutch, Scimitar,
or Case-knife.
The first use of the term Caseknife to describe this bean comes in an advertisement in the Maryland Journal and Baltimore Daily Advertiser,
March 8, 1793 in which Maximilian Henisler advertises a “large Dutch Caseknife Bean.” Like the dwarf white kidney there is significant variance
between the strains of this bean in different countries and probably even
within regions in a single country. Burr (1865) writes, "The Case-knife,
in its habit and general appearance, much resembles the Sabre, or Cimeter,
of the French, and perhaps is but a sub-variety. Plants, however, from
imported Sabre-beans, were shorter, not so stocky, a little earlier, and
the pods, generally, less perfectly formed." Vilmorin (1885) says,
"The Germans cultivate a great number of sub-varieties of it, characterized
chiefly by having broader and straighter pods." This is not surprising
given its wide popularity. Randolph writes in A Treatise on Gardening (1793), "The Dutch sort, which is the common kind." This bean
should be grown in almost every vegetable garden in town.
Scarlet Runner Bean:
The
Scarlet Runner (Phaseolus coccineus) is native to the mountains
of Mexico and Guatemala, preferring a cooler, more humid environment
than P. vulgaris. It suffers in the hot, often dry, climate of
the coastal plain of Virginia. Because of its limited natural range
it was likely domesticated after P. vulgaris (The
Origins of Fruit and Vegetables, Roberts, 2001). It was apparently introduced to
England early in the 17th century. In the Johnson edition of Gerard’s
Herball (1633) it is recorded that the Scarlet Runner was “procured
by Mr. Tradescant, and growes in our Gardens, is a large plant,
not differing in manner of growth from the former Indian Kidney
Beanes, but his floures are large, many, and of an elegant scarlet
colour; whence it is vulgarly termed by our Flourists, the Scarlet
Bean.”
The
Scarlet Runner was particularly suited to the English climate,
more so than the pole varieties of P. vulgaris. It was one of the
best varieties of snap beans as recorded by James Justice in I(1771): “This
bean [Scarlet kidney bean] I would recommend for family use, not
only as it holds long, but the little trouble it gives…is
clean from the strings that are so troublesome in the fruit of
the other kinds: they are also good boilers, both as to colour
and flavour.”
Its
bright red flowers give a highly ornamental quality as recorded
by Philip Miller in I (1754) “The
Scarlet Bean…is very common in the English Gardens, being
planted for the Beauty of its scarlet Flowers. It will thrive very
well in the City, the Smoke of the Sea-coal being less injurious
to the Plant than most others; so that it is often cultivated in
Balconies, &c. and, being supported either with Sticks or Strings,
grows up to a good Height, and produces Flowers as it advances:
it is also planted in some Gardens, to cover Arbours, and other
Seats, in the Summer-season, to affords Shade.”
In this country,
Thomas Jefferson refers to it as the “arbor bean” in
1812. He had acquired the bean prior to 1791 as Benjamin Hawkins
thanks Jefferson in that year for sending him the “scarlet
runner.” In Williamsburg the “Scarlet” bean
advertised in the Virginia Gazette on March 26, 1767 by William
Wills and John Donley is likely the Scarlet Runner.
Bushel or Sugar Beans:
This is the lima bean. The lima bean (Phaseolus lunatus) is a native of
both South American and Central America. It was apparently domesticated
from the wild Phaseolus lunatus var. sylvester in two separate locations.
The larger form was domesticated in South America by 6500 BCE. Examples
are found in the archeological site at Guitarrero Cave in Peru and predates
the domestication of Phaseolus vulgaris. The second, and more recent,
domestication occurred in Mesoamerica. This was the smaller, more heat
tolerant variety often referred to as the Sieva bean. There is some confusion
in the literature over these two beans. Some authors place them in separate
species in which the larger bean, is classed as P. limensis and called
the Lima bean while the smaller classed as P. lunatus and called the Sieva
or Butterbean. Other authors include all varieties under P. lunatus.
Mary Randolph, in Virginia Housewife (1824),
calls it the Lima or Sugar Bean and it is listed in the Va. Gazette in
1792 as simply Lima bean. Lima bean seeds were
found in Williamsburg at the Richneck slave quarters site near
Williamsburg that date from early in the 18th century and may have
been obtained by the slaves directly from native Americans. John
Lawson in The
History of Carolina (1714)
observes the lima being grown by native peoples and writes, "The
Bushel bean, a spontaneous growth, very flat, white, and mottled
with a purple figure, was trained on poles." This is very
likely a variety of lima of the Seiva or Carolina type. The Sieva
type is probably the common variety of
limas grown by the North American Indians in both the white and
colored forms based on the proximity of its ancestral origins.
Lobel catalogs the large white lima, the speckled lima and the
small white (Sieva) lima in Icones Stirpium (1591)
but there is very little written of the bean in England to be able
to compare it to modern varieties. This is undoubtedly because
the lima takes a very long, warm season to mature and would be
difficult to grow in England.
Randolph writes in A Treatise
on Gardening (1793), "the BUSHEL or SUGAR
BEANS, being of a tender nature, should not be plant till April."
He also says they "are of various colours, as white, marbled and
green." Jefferson records a White Carolina bean in 1794 which is
almost certainly a Sieva lima. George Washington, in a Feb. 3, 1793
letter to Anthony Whiting, records: “Under cover of this letter
you will receive some Lima Beans which Mrs. Washington desires may be
given to the Gardener.” He obtains seed for the lima again in
April 1794.
Other beans which may be appropriate to pre-Revolutionary Williamsburg:
The beans discussed so far, with the exception of the lima, are primarily
those that the colonists obtained from Europe. There were undoubtedly
many more that originated from trade with the native peoples and were
developed within the colonies. John Josselyn in New England Rarities
Discovered, 1672, cites a bean that is probably the Red Cranberry
Pole Bean. This is a somewhat inferior bean according to Anne Simmons
in American Cookery (1796), who writes, "Cranbury Bean is
rich, but not universally approved equal to the other two." This
bean seems to remain primarily in New England. However, Col. Francis
Taylor of Orange Co. records on April 8, 1788 that he "Planted
red beans."
The trade between planters in different vegetable seeds would have resulted
in the development of many regional varieties. This exchange of seeds
is reflected in a diary entry of Col. Taylor, April 7, 1787, "Got
some Beans from Mrs. Burnley and Lettuce from D° and C. Taylors
and Cucumber seed from John Leathers."
These regional and uniquely American
beans are, unfortunately, hard to identify
because so little is written about them
in the colonial period. For example, Burr
(1865) says the Red-speckled bean (dwarf)
has been common to the gardens of this
country for nearly two centuries. The
only reference I can find for this bean
in 18th century Virginia comes from Jefferson
who records a red speckled snap in 1794.
In South Carolina, Squibb records the
red speckled dwarf kidney in the Gardener’s
Calendar (1787). Minton Collins offers
a speckled French in 1793 that may be
the same and a specked dwarf is listed
in Gardener and Hepburn’s The
American Gardener (1804). McMahon
lists the Red-specked dwarf in his 1806
catalog in Philadelphia.
The colored beans were also known in
England but as Bradley says in New
Improvements of Planting and Gardening
(1731), "We have two sorts of Kidney-Beans
common in our Gardens...those being the
dwarf and pole varieties of the white
kidney." He says he has seen upwards
of fifty other varieties but (they) "seldom
produce much fruit in England." Stephen
Switzer in The Practical Kitchen Gardener,
1727, agrees saying, "At present
we chiefly sow and plant the old white
kind; tho' the black, red, yellow and
party-colour'd eat very well." The
question is: how well did they eat in
the colonies? There are a number of references
to colored beans in the advertisements
found in the Virginia Gazette. William
Byrd II writes in his Natural History
(ca. 1730), One has many species
of French beans, or small beans, such
as Indian beans, which bear bushells full
throughout the whole summer...They are
white, sprinkled with color, with a dark
red figure on each side, and very good
to taste. In The Gardener's Calendar,
written in 1787, Robert Squibb records
for the month of April, under Snap or
Bush Bean, Sow white, black, yellow,
black speckled, red speckled, large white
or the cream colored dwarfs. The
Jones family papers contain a reference
to black French Beans in 1797
and Col. Francis Talyor plants a red
Snap bean in 1788.
While the colored beans were certainly
more common in our gardens than in the
English gardens, it appears they were
still probably second in preference to
the white. . In the journal of Francis
Michel, a Swiss traveler who is in the
Williamsburg area from Oct. 2, 1701 until
Dec. 1, 1702 he records a dinner at a
humble house he stops in: She gave
us also some food, a species of small
white beans, cooked with bacon.
There are many heirloom varieties of beans available today, most dating
from the 19th century but probably similar to varieties known in 18th
century Virginia.
I am often asked, "did the colonists grow their beans on corn plants
like the Indians did?" There are few references to this practice
by the colonists whose agricultural and gardening methods were strikingly
different from those of the indigenous peoples but there is an interesting
entry in Landon Carter's diary, April 25, 1770, "will plant me a
bushel of beans in every other Corn hill before the quarter that they
may be protected against thieves." While this practice would have
been confined to the plantations, because corn was not generally grown
as a kitchen garden vegetable, quite a few beans have carried the name
of Corn Field, which would lead one to suppose that the practice was fairly
common. McMahon offers a Corn Hill Bean in his 1802 catalog. This would
probably be a Cut-Short type that is best approximated today by the Amish
Nuttle Bean.

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